Bibliography

The Hair in Ancient Times [online] [15/10/14] Available from: http://thehistoryofthehairsworld.com/old_age_1.html

Ancient Chinese hairstyles before and after marriage [online] [15/10/14] Available from: http://www.wuxiaedge.com/ancient-­‐ chinese-­‐hairstyles-­‐before-­‐and-­‐after-­‐marriage/
A history of Chinese hairstyles [online] [20/10/14] Available from: http://cn.hujiang.com/new/p533598/
The symbolism of a medieval haircut [online] [20/10/14] Available from: http://www.historytoday.com/simon-­‐coates/scissors-­‐or-­‐ sword-­‐symbolism-­‐medieval-­‐haircut
Notes on the symbolism and meaning of the topknot [online] [20/10/14] Available from: https://japanesemythology.wordpress.com/notes-­‐on-­‐the-­‐ symbolism-­‐and-­‐meaning-­‐of-­‐the-­‐top-­‐knot/
METZGER, SEAN, 2014. Chinese looks : fashion, performance, race Bloomington : Indiana University Press 2014
BIDDLE-­‐PERRY, G. CHEANG, S. 2008. Hair: Styling, Culture and Fashion. Hair devotion in India. 

Project Evaluation

I have never worked with wigs before, although I have always been interested in learning how to do so, I was excited to learn the skills required to style wigs and how to knot. I have really enjoyed this unit, particularly the learning of new skills in the practical lessons.

I started my research by looking into various cultures, learning how they use hair as a symbolism. I found it really interesting how different cultures have such different rituals and traditions when it comes to their hair, and how different styles and cuts can mean different things in different countries and cultures.

After completing the summer homework, I thought it would be interesting to look further into Chinese hair culture and symbolism, and decided to base my story on this.

A problem which I encountered in this project was the fact that I bought my wig before finalizing my idea – as I wanted to ensure that it arrived in time. This meant that I had a blonde wig when usually you would typically associate China with black hair. I feel that in the end this actually worked really well, as I had to alter my story to fit in with the colour of the hair. I think that it gave a twist to my story, and added more of a contemporary element.

Working with the nylon wig was a lot harder than I anticipated, and I found it difficult to style some of my initial designs. To solve this I had to alter my designs slightly, so that it worked better with the wig.

I was really happy with the outcome of my photos, and I think that the lighting worked really well. I was initially concerned about the outcome of my simple design – as I ran out of time to finish and attach the knotted hairline to the wig, I was worried that the hard edge wig would look really unrealistic once on my model. I used the flowers and braids to disguise this slightly, and I think that it worked well and ended up looking like the models own hair.

Simple final shoot

Moderate final shoot

Extreme final shoot

Testing of ideas

In my designs I have included the 'Chinese staircase braid', which I found when doing my research. As I have never created this before I tested it out on a dolls head before doing it on my nylon wig. 

The braid was actually easier than I thought it was going to be, just quite time consuming. Its consisted of notting the hair, which was quite difficult to get out. Also it was hard to make it look smooth and sleek, although I think the end result actually looked quite effective. After doing this practice I have decided to do these braids using hair extensions instead of on my wig, as it will mean that I won't have to try and un-knot the hair each time I have to restyle my wig.

Final Idea - Extreme

I want my final extreme idea to show my character as she is marrying the Prince. I wanted this to be really elaborate and detailed, so I have made the entire middle section of the hair into a mixture of small and large plaits, incorporating ribbon within the plaits. I used aspects from both traditional Chinese royalty hairstyles, and how traditionally married women in China style their hair. 

For the bottom I am going to twist and pin the hair into place, and for the top I am going to use hair doghnuts for the main structure, then pull the hair through and pin in place. 

I have still used aspects from my initial design, but after feedback from my presentation of ideas I changed the bottom section, and changed the top section so it wasn't too over the top. 

Final Idea - Moderate

For my moderate idea, I want it to show my character after she is married to the Prince and is now part of the Chinese royal family. I changed my idea a lot from my orginal idea, as when I tried to test the idea out I realised it would be extremely difficult, especially on nylon hair. 

I want this hairstyle to be really grand and quite big. I will use padding to create the main structure. For the front I will cover the hairline with lots of small plaits, using hair extensions as well. I will also use a gold ribbon to put at the top of the plaits. 

At the back of the hair I will bring the remaining hair to the back in a twist like shape, incorporating ribbon into it. 

Final Idea - Simple

My final simple idea is based around how my character has just moved to China and met the Prince. I still based it around how in traditional Chinese culture single women wear their hair down with braids at the back, so I used this within my design. I have only changed this design slightly from my original idea.

The braids will be a twist, chinese staircase braid and plaits. I will make the Chinese braid using hair extensions as I don't want to ruin my wig, and it will be easier to attach.

I want the hair to be really smooth and sleek, which could be difficult as it is the last shoot. I think that it will take quite a while to brush the hair so that it is like this, so I will need to ensure that I start to restyle it as soon as possible after my moderate shoot, so that I have enough time to create the look I want to achieve.

Presentation of research and ideas

After presenting my presentation to my class, the main feedback that I received was mainly about my story and how to link it to the colour of the wig. I need to think of how to link these factors together better. Also they felt that the bottom part of my extreme design didn't look quite right, I need to expand on this design so that it flows better. I need to really think about what materials and flowers I use in my designs as this can completely change the outcome.

Initial ideas - Extreme

I want to base my extreme idea on the fact that my character has married the Prince, and is now married into the Royal family. This means that I want my idea to be very grand and detailed. I have included buns at both the top and bottom of the hair, with detailed plaits in the middle.

Initial ideas - Moderate

For my initial moderate idea, I want to base my design on the fact that my character is marrying the Prince. This means that I will take influence from traditional Chinese bridal hair, and the symbolism of hair for married women in China. This means that the hair will have to be up. I will include buns with ribbon thread through linking the buns, and attach some decorative hair pins.

Initial ideas - Simple

I want my simple idea to be based before my character is married. I have based it on how in traditional Chinese culture single women have their hair down with a braid at the back, so this is what I have incorporated into my design. I will need to practise creating the chinese startcase braid, to check it will be achievable when using the nylon wig.

Blocking wigs/Using rollers on real hair lace wigs

Equipment:
· Galloon
· Clingfilm
· Pins
· T-pins
· Wig lace
· Plastic rollers
· Pintail comb
· Hair lace wig

Technique:
· Cover the block with cling film so that it protects it from getting wet or damaged.

· Use the central line of the block as a guide for where the nose will be.

· Position the wig onto the block.

· Cut the galloon so that it is the same size as the outline of the wig.

· Secure the lace onto the block using the galloon and wig pins. Ensure the galloon and lace are kept flat.

· Secure all around the hairline.

· T-pins help secure the lace onto the block, and stop the wig from stretching when rollering.

· Gently brush through the hair.

· Section the hair accordingly to the size of the rollers being used and the style of hair.

· Comb the section before rollering it from the root.

· Place the roller at the tip of the hair and roll towards the root.

· Make sure the hair is taut – use the end of the pintail comb to achieve this.

· Use the T-pin to secure the roller to the head.

· Continue this technique until all sections have been rollered.

· Secure the net on top of the style to ensure that the hair doesn’t move in the oven.

· Place wig in the wig oven.

· Once the wig is out of the oven, ensure that the hair has cooled before taking out the rollers to ensure that the hair has set well.


Setting a nylon wig
· Set the hair in rollers and base the direction according to the outcome you want to achieve with the final style.

· Once the entire wig is set, use the steamer to steam the hair.

· Hold the steamer over each section until you can see that the hair is visibly wet – you will see the hair around the roller change slightly.

· Once the wig has been steamed, leave the hair to set for at least three days.

· Before taking out the rollers, ensure that the hair has dried completely.

Big hair inspired by hammer horror

Equipment:
· Hairspray
· Hairbrush
· Sectioning grips
· Hairgrips
· Hairspray
· Curling tongs

Technique:
· Create a middle parting in the models hair.

· Section off the front sections either side of the middle parting, just behind the ear, leaving the back as one section.

· Create three horizontal barrel curls on both front sections – either side of the middle parting. Spray heat protector on the hair before using heated appliances.

· At the bottom – beneath the horizontal curls – create one vertical barrel curl.

· For the back section, curl the hair in a brick like pattern across the hair for the two rows.

· Beneath this, barrel curl the hair vertically – but alternate the direction of the curl, and secure with a sectioning clip.

· Wait for the hair to set, then remove the clips from the back section and brush out the curls individually so that they stay separate from one another.

· Backcomb the top barrel curl gently at the root to add lift.

· Remove the front sectioning clips – again keeping each curl separate from one another – and position them around the face.

Wig Application

Preparation
· Hair wraps:

- For very smooth, flat wigs.
- Hair is gelled and sculpted, and secured with pins.

- Best for short/small wigs like bobs – where plaits or pincurls would show underneath the wig.

· Flat plaits:
- Best for smooth wigs with less movement involved.
- Downside is there isn’t a lot of security.

· Flat pincurls:
- For voluminous wigs.
- Very secure.

· Inverted chunky plaits:
- Very secure.
- For large, sculptured wigs.

· Grips must either be removed or hidden to avoid any bumps on the surface of the wig.

· The preparation of the hair should represent the style.

· Create a hair chart for your wig prep.

· Adapt according to wig style, hair type, security, quick changes.

· Avoid using shiny grips.

· Always use a stocking cap matching the root colour of the wig.

Pins:

Fine wig pins: edges of wig
Wiggly pins: to anchor the hair
Geishas: to apply to thick, plaited prep
Grips: Matte to avoid slipping
Avoid: pins with bobbled ends and putting thick pins around edges

Hairlines:
Tailor made – fully cover head with wig
Half wigs – use own hair
Hard edge wigs – use own hair
Different colou rs– use coloured chalks to blend

Hair wrap: Technique 

· Used typically in fashion

· Place wig on models head to check where the parting is.

· Section off hair just behind the ear.

· Wrap it across then pin in the middle.

· Bring hair around like a circle then pin.

· Repeat on the other side.

· Wet hair with a spray.

· Repeat on bottom section.

· Don’t let hair twist – keep it flat.

· For the front sections don’t let the hair sit over the hairline.

· Spray hairspray onto a wire toothbrush to brush away stray hairs.

· Put on a stocking cap to contain hair – it makes it easier to change the models wigs – but don’t let it crease up.

· Use the pintail comb to tuck away any stray wisps of hair.

· Put the cap just behind the hairline – depending on the wig shape.

· Put the pins in horizontally – push to the scalp, then flat against the scalp, then push through.

· Place the wig on the models head, and make sure its centred.

· Grip the wig into place.

· Use anchor points with bigger pins.

· Use finer pins to secure around the edge.

· Place through the wig, flatten, then push up.

Bigger wig preparation
· Section off the middle section of hair, leaving the edges.

· Plait the middle section into a circle.

· Grip into place – cross grip.

· Stocking will just cover the middle section.

· Place wig over this, and grip around to secure.

· Use the grips to bring hair in the wig over the edge and pin under.

· Backcomb the front sections then pin over the wig.

Ancient Chinese Royalty

To help create my story I decided to research further into Ancient Chinese royalty, and I came across the 'Four Beauties', who were women from ancient China legendary for their looks and the influence they had over emperors and kings who had fallen for their charms.

One of them was called Yang Guifei, who caught the attention of Emperor Xuanzong. He was besotted with her, and would do anything to have her - even though she was married to his own son. She was said to have “a face that would shame any flower.” As a result of this Emperor Xuanzong started to neglect his duties, as he preffered to spend time in her company. He would do anything to impress her so he started making her family officals in court. As a result of this a rebellion started to happen against him and they ordered that Yang Guifei be excexuted. She ended up hanging herself instead - and it now said that 'her beauty brought down a dynasty.'

There is now a film being made about her life. I have found reading about this really interesting, and it has given me an insight to how I could create my character story.

Character ideas

As part of our fashion story we need to create a character so that our three images fit together. I struggled with this as I wanted to base my story of Chinese culture, but I have a blonde wig - and usually when you think of Chinese culture black hair is more typical.

My character is going to be a young girl who has moved to China from England. She has fallen in love and married to a Prince in the Chinese royal family, and has had to adapt to their cultures and traditions - including their fashion, makeup and hair styles. 

I will still use my research on Chinese hair symbolism within my final hair designs, but I will need to look into more royal hair designs to fit in with my story. 

Moodboard of initial ideas

Chinese Symbolism in hair

After completing the summer homework, I thought it would be interesting to look further into Chinese hair culture and symbolism, and decided to base my story on this. I started to research into how symbolism is used in hair in traditional Chinese culture, and I found that one of the main things is based on their marital status.

•Single women (yimei) arranged their hair down with a braid/plait at the back.

•Married women (yisao) use a bun tied in the top of the head.

•Widow women, who didn’t want to marry again, shaved their heads. They saw that cutting the hair in that way is a mutilation and a disfiguration of their image.

These are old traditions with origin in Fuzhou, in Southern China.

I thought that it would be interesting to base my character story on this concept. Obviously I wouldn't be able to base one of my designs on widow women, so I will need to research more to come up with another idea instead of this.

Creating a fringe

In class our task was to create a fringe using materials and hair based on the culture we are looking at. As I am looking at Chinese culture I used red a gold materials.

I started to create my fringe at the sides and was going to take it across the whole of the fringe, but as we had limited time I ran out of time to do this.

I was happy with the sides and how I incorporated the hair into the ribbon as well. If I were to put it across the whole fringe I would have used this technique.

After doing this task I am thinking of incorporating this into my designs, as I think it looks effective.

Beehive inspired hair

Equipment:
· Hair grips and pins
· Pintail comb
· Paddle brush
· Sectioning grips
· Hairspray

Technique:
· Section off the front of the hair from ear to ear to create two sections.

· Spray heat protector on the models hair

· On the back section, curl the hair in the same direction to create the curl for the French pleat.

· After curling the hair and letting it set, take out the grips and lightly brush through the hair.

· Push all of the back section onto one side – from right to left – and cross grip down the middle.

· Pull all of the hair back towards the centre, wrapping it over and around your hand to create one large curl.

· Secure through the cross grips using more bobby pins to hold it in place.

· Begin to create the beehive by taking sections from the side of the head and backcombing and positioning them into the French pleat.

· Use hairspray, hairgrips and the tail of the pintail comb to fix the hair in place, making sure that the hair is smooth and going in the right direction.

· For the front section, pull the hair upwards and then wrap it around so that it removes the parting.

Hair and Devotion in India

After reading the article ‘Hair, Devotion and Trade in India’ from the book ‘Hair: Styling, Culture and Fashion’ by Eiluned Edwards, it has given me a greater understanding of the traditions and cultures used in India when it comes to their hair.

There are many religious beliefs to the way both woman and men treat their hair in India. For example it is normal for women to keep their hair completely uncut and for the men to stay unshaven. This is a usually a tradition in Hindu belief, where the hair remains uncut, and either in a plait, bun, or covered by a cloth. Hair that isn’t bound or covered usually means that the woman is a widow, menstruating, or insane. I find it interesting that you can tell all of these things just from looking at their hairstyle, as it isn’t something that you usually see in the culture that we are living in today.

Traditionally in India when there is a fatality in the family they shave their head. This is said to remove the mourners from the influence of death and ghosts. This is performed by a special barber who would be called ‘untouchable’.

Making a hairline caste/Knotting the hairline

Equipment:
· Clingfilm
· Water spray
· Hair grips
· Pintail comb
· Sellotape
· Permanent marker
· Wig block
· Pins
· Knotting hook
· Wig lace
· Warm water

· The front of the hair should follow the natural hairline to make the wig look more realistic.

· For side burns the lace should be at a vertical angle.

· For the hairline the lace should be at a horizontal angle.

Technique:
· Wet the front of the hair using the water spray, then comb the hair back so that you can see the hairline clearly, creating the parting which is the exact same as your wig.

· Cross grip the hair halfway down, ensuring that the hair is still slicked back well enough to see the hairline.

· Clingfilm the front of the head over the hairline and sideburns, pull tight and grip in place.

· Tear off medium sized strips of sellotape, and stick over the forehead and hairline.

· Do a few layers of this to ensure the caste is solid.

· Use the permanent marker to trace over the hairline – following the same direction as the models hair.

· Write the models name on the caste.

· Sellotape over the top of the marker to ensure it doesn’t wipe off.

· Attach the caste straight to the wig block – using sellotape and pins – making sure its secure.

· If you are creating a whole head caste, stuff the caste with tissue straight away to ensure it doesn’t lose the shape of the models head.

· Making the hairline: Cover the caste/block with the lace, pull it very taut then pin into place.

· To ensure that the lace is flat, pleat it where necessary and secure using pins. Make sure that the pleats aren’t on the hairline or parting as it doesn’t look realistic and is harder to knot.

· Before starting the knotting place the wig block into a cradle, and place a coloured piece of paper underneath the lace so that you can see the hole clearly.

· Take a lock of the hair which you are using to knot the hairline, and fold it to form a loop. Dip it into warm water to soften the hair.

· Hook under a hole then catch a strand of hair from the loop.

· Loop the hair underneath the lace and drop the hair to the end of the needle.

· Hook the strand again and pull it though to create the knot.

Mohawk inspired hair

Equipment:
· Pintail comb
· Hair grips
· Hair bands
· Medium sized curling tongs
· Hairspray

· It is best not to add any product until the very end.

· Use wax if the hair is very coarse or there are a lot of baby hairs.

· Ensure all three sections are the same size.

Technique:
· Before starting ensure your model is facing in front of the mirror.

· Turn the curling tongs on to about 20 degrees, ensuring they are in a safe place out of the way of the model.

· Section off the top middle, securing with a hairband tightly. The sides of the hair should be flat so ensure the hair is combed well.

· Section the hair at an angle – from the ear to the back, on both sides.

· Tie the middle and final section in the same way as the first.

· Make sure that all the bands are in line with each other.

· Get a section from the first ponytail, curl and sure in a barrel curl with a grip.

· The curls are there to add volume and shape – so it doesn’t matter if it isn’t the perfect curl or if they are all even.

· Curl all of the sections in one go, and allow the curls to cool before taking them out so that they don’t drop.

· Take the curls out of the first section and backcomb them slightly to add volume.

· Split the curls with the end of the pintail comb, roll them over and secure with a grip.

· Check that you can’t see the band underneath the hair.

· Repeat this process with each section.

· Connect all the sections together by moving the hair into place with the bun pins to create the finished Mohawk look.

· Finish the look off with hairspray to flatten any stray hairs.